Yangon
With her soaking wet, purple patterned longyi, Hla walks towards the stage smiling happily.
It is April, the sun is burning hot from a blue sky, and it is Thingyan, the yearly water festival.
Every street in Yangon are packed with people, all soaking wet, all with buckets of water or
water guns, laughing happily with big smiles, no matter their age. It is not a dry spot to detect
in front of Sule Pagoda and Maha Bandula Park, which is packed with people. Through the
music from the stage, massive water guns create rainbows under the burning sun. It feels like
standing in light rain, without an umbrella, it has a pleasant cooling effect. On the stage in
front of the City Hall, Hla watches the local dancers performing traditional dances to
familiar Burmese music. She enjoys this temporary and glorious chaos.
To flee the city during the week of Thingyan is prevalent and bus tickets are sold out weeks
ahead. In Yangon, most of the stores close down, and the streets consist of the chaos of people
and cars getting nowhere. The rush traffic Hla typically complains about is nothing compared
to this; it can take hours to get from one point to another, and even inside the cars you are not
safe from the water. Both private- and taxi drivers cover their interior with plastic so that
they can stop at numerous water-stations, roll down their windows and get cold water thrown
on them and their passengers. Just a few years ago it was safe to walk in the smaller streets in
Yangon to keep a bit dry, but these days the festival is in every street imaginable. Even right
outside the apartment, the first thing Hla received today was a bucket of cold water over her
shoulders from her heartwarmingly laughing neighbor. Luckily, as one should, she had her
valuables such as cash and her smartphone in a waterproof case around her neck. It is almost
like a fashion statement during the festival, to have these waterproof cases, preferably a
colorful one visible. She does understand why many people travel to the calmer cities of
Bagan or Mandalay during the festivals, but Yangon is much fun as well. Especially for the
youth.
The day before, together with some friends, she rented an open car and drove around in the
streets. They filled the back of the car with large buckets of water and more beer than they
were able to drink. Like many others, they were dancing, throwing water at people passing by
while being stuck in traffic. The water is supposed to be cleansing from the past year so that
one will enter the new year fresh and ready to do good. Because of this, Hla and everyone
else welcomes the cold water, as well the lovely cooling effect it has. It is after all April, one
of the hottest months in the year, and Yangon feels somewhat closer to the sun than usual. The
chaos of happy people, all soaking wet, the bright sun, and alcohol are marvelous.
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