Yangon With her soaking wet, purple patterned longyi, Hla walks towards the stage smiling happily. It is April, the sun is burning hot from a blue sky, and it is Thingyan, the yearly water festival. Every street in Yangon are packed with people, all soaking wet, all with buckets of water or water guns, laughing happily with big smiles, no matter their age. It is not a dry spot to detect in front of Sule Pagoda and Maha Bandula Park, which is packed with people. Through the music from the stage, massive water guns create rainbows under the burning sun. It feels like standing in light rain, without an umbrella, it has a pleasant cooling effect. On the stage in front of the City Hall, Hla watches the local dancers performing traditional dances to familiar Burmese music. She enjoys this temporary and glorious chaos. To flee the city during the week of Thingyan is prevalent and bus tickets are sold out weeks ahead. In Yangon, most of the stores close down, and the streets consist of the chaos of people and cars getting nowhere. The rush traffic Hla typically complains about is nothing compared to this; it can take hours to get from one point to another, and even inside the cars you are not safe from the water. Both private- and taxi drivers cover their interior with plastic so that they can stop at numerous water-stations, roll down their windows and get cold water thrown on them and their passengers. Just a few years ago it was safe to walk in the smaller streets in Yangon to keep a bit dry, but these days the festival is in every street imaginable. Even right outside the apartment, the first thing Hla received today was a bucket of cold water over her shoulders from her heartwarmingly laughing neighbor. Luckily, as one should, she had her valuables such as cash and her smartphone in a waterproof case around her neck. It is almost like a fashion statement during the festival, to have these waterproof cases, preferably a colorful one visible. She does understand why many people travel to the calmer cities of Bagan or Mandalay during the festivals, but Yangon is much fun as well. Especially for the youth. The day before, together with some friends, she rented an open car and drove around in the streets. They filled the back of the car with large buckets of water and more beer than they were able to drink. Like many others, they were dancing, throwing water at people passing by while being stuck in traffic. The water is supposed to be cleansing from the past year so that one will enter the new year fresh and ready to do good. Because of this, Hla and everyone else welcomes the cold water, as well the lovely cooling effect it has. It is after all April, one of the hottest months in the year, and Yangon feels somewhat closer to the sun than usual. The chaos of happy people, all soaking wet, the bright sun, and alcohol are marvelous. 37

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