Chapter 2.
“On Method”
The second I step out of the airplane; intense sun hits my face. This was more than welcome
after a long trip with a tired body. It had been some long and intense hours since I hugged my
dad goodbye and handed him my winter coat back in Oslo. Now, however, I finally had
arrived at the final destination and furthermore, my new home for the next six months. As I
got inside the airport, I attempted, hopelessly, not to look too much like a tourist. I walked
with a folder containing copies of all documents imaginable ready in my right hand, a heartshaped pillow with a picture of my cat in the left one, and a sincere wish to pronounce the
Burmese “hello” correct at first try. My attempt failed greatly, but I received an amused
smile from the lady behind the desk and an approved visa. Pleased, I got my backpack and
grabbed a taxi to the hostel, ready to get to work straight away. I had finally arrived after
extensive preparations, nerves, and anticipation. At the hostel, I was relaxing in a chair and
writing in my notebook as I heard the ringing sound of a gong in the distance. It was still
early morning, and one of my very first experience in Myanmar was the traditional
almsgiving procession with monks, all dressed in their red, saffron-colored ropes with shaved
heads, collecting today's rice. Mingalaba, and welcome to Yangon!
This thesis is based upon a six months long fieldwork in Yangon, Myanmar. When I arrived
in January 2018, I chose to take some time to acclimatize and get to know my new
surroundings and figure out how to go on with my fieldwork. In addition, I started a fourweek language course in basic Burmese speaking, listening, reading and writing. This period
gave me the space I needed to find a place to stay, get used to Yangon city, learn to
communicate with some Burmese, and basic do´s and don´ts. My home became an apartment
I shared with two British teachers in Hledan district, a bit north of downtown Yangon.
Downtown Yangon is viewed as the city center. It is where most things happen, which also
makes it a busy and noisy district. Hledan was a good choice, situated a bit further away from
the chaos of downtown, but also worked as a smaller center with everything you need to live
comfortably. It is also a district where foreign people do not usually choose to live, which
makes it a nice place to get good contact with the locals and their routines. Right outside my
apartment was one of Yangon’s biggest street-markets, every day booming of fresh fruit,
vegetables, meat, as well as clothes, spices and plastic baskets, carpets and whatever you
would need. In the same street, I had laundry-service, sewers, and hairdressers, all-family run.
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